Let’s just be honest here: Starting a skincare routine when you have melanin-rich skin is not always as simple as the internet makes it sound.
I get it, Instagram Influencers are everywhere constantly prompting all sorts of skincare.
Most of us didn’t grow up with drawers full of serums and moisturizers or conversations around “skin barriers” and “SPF reapplication.”
If you’re anything like me, your first real skincare product might’ve been a cocoa butter stick from your auntie’s purse, or some Clean & Clear face wash your cousin left behind.
And you probably didn’t think about sunscreen until way later — if ever.
But then something changes.
Maybe your skin starts breaking out, like me.
Maybe you’re left with dark spots that refuse to fade. I have a post here on hyperpigmentation serums that worked for me if you’re interested.
Maybe your glow starts to feel a little dull and tired, and you’re just craving that soft, clear, healthy look — the kind of skin that feels like you again.
Or perhaps you’re trying to avoid wrinkles.
If you’re nodding along, I want you to know: you don’t need a 10-step routine to get there.
Because the idea is to build a habit you can be consistent with.
If you’ve never done an extensive skincare, then 10 steps might make you feel overwhelmed.
You just need a few well-chosen, beginner-friendly steps made for melanin-rich skin.
So let’s start from scratch.
This is the routine I wish I had when I was just beginning — one that’s simple, gentle, and actually works.
Step 1: Cleanser – Wash, Don’t Strip
Let’s start here: your face doesn’t need to feel squeaky to be clean.
That tight, dry feeling? That’s your skin crying for help.
Especially for Black women, stripping your skin can lead to overproduction of oil and even more breakouts!
You can destroy your skin barrier if you over-cleanse.
Take it from someone who learned from experience.
Look for a gentle, hydrating cleanser that removes sweat, dirt, and makeup without leaving your skin feeling dry or irritated.
🧼 Try this:
- CeraVe Foaming Facial Cleanser – gentle, affordable, and doesn’t mess with your barrier.
- Simple Kind to Skin Refreshing Face Wash – no perfume, no harshness, just clean skin.
Okay, here’s what you need to note:
In the morning, you might not need a full cleanse — just rinse with water or use micellar water if your skin feels calm.
Overwashing can do more harm than good, remember this.
Step 2: Toner – Optional, but Soothing
Toners aren’t mandatory — but they can be a lovely little moment of calm, especially if your skin feels inflamed or you’ve just cleansed.
It also helps your skincare absorb better – this is the only reason I use a toner.
For darker skin tones prone to hyperpigmentation or dryness, pick a hydrating toner, not one that stings like you’re being punished.
- Klairs Supple Preparation Toner – deeply hydrating, no alcohol, K-beauty staple.
- Paula’s Choice Pore Minimizing Toner – I use this every single day so I can vouch for how lovely it is!
Pour a little on your hands and press it into your face instead of wiping with a cotton pad — it’s gentler, and you waste less product.
Step 3: Serum – The Magic Step (But Keep It Simple)
Okay, serums are where the magic happens — but don’t get overwhelmed.
Because I have acne, I use a serum like Salicylic acid because I need exfoliation to reduce pore-clogging.
I’ve talked about my acne-skincare here.
If you’re dealing with dark spots, uneven tone, or dullness, start with one simple brightening serum.
Niacinamide, Vitamin C, and Alpha Arbutin are beginner-friendly, and great for Black skin.
💧 Try this:
- The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% – reduces oiliness, and brightens dark spots. It also makes skin very smooth and I love this one!
- Minimalist Alpha Arbutin 2% Serum – fades pigmentation gently. Check out my dark spot fading serums in this post.
- Pacifica Vitamin C Serum – darkens spots and gives a beautiful glow.
Use serums only once a day to start.
This will help your skin get used to it.
Morning is best for Vitamin C, while Niacinamide and Alpha Arbutin work beautifully at night.
Step 4: Moisturizer – Your Skin’s Soft Hug
Black skin can be oily yet still dry underneath, especially in dry climates or air-conditioned rooms.
A good moisturizer will help keep your skin plump, soft, and protected — without clogging pores or making you greasy.
Look for something lightweight, non-comedogenic (aka won’t block pores), and soothing.
🧴 Try this:
- Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel – light, cooling, and amazing under makeup.
- Pond’s Super Light Gel with Hyaluronic Acid + Vitamin E – budget-friendly and bouncy.
If your skin is super dry, try layering a few drops of facial oil (like rosehip or squalane) on top of your moisturizer at night.
Step 5: Sunscreen – Yes, Even for You
This is the step most of us were never taught.
I didn’t wear sunscreen until I was 27 — I thought dark skin didn’t burn, so why bother?
But here’s the truth: sunscreen is your strongest weapon against dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
No serum in the world will work if you’re not protecting your skin during the day.
The trick is to find a sunscreen that doesn’t leave a white cast and won’t break you out.
☀️ Try this:
- La Shield Fisico SPF 50+ Mineral Sunscreen – zero white cast, non-greasy.
- Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch SPF 50 – classic, safe for most skin types.
- Fixderma Shadow SPF 30+ – gentle and good for sensitive skin.
Sunscreen is the one step you never skip — even if it’s cloudy.
Even if you’re indoors near windows.
Hyperpigmentation darkens fast with unprotected sun exposure.
Bonus Step: Night Care + Weekly Treats
If you want to add a little extra love:
- Once or twice a week, use a clay mask (like Multani Mitti or Bentonite) to detox.
- Or a hydrating sheet mask if you’re dry or tired.
- And if your skin is flaring up, try a soothing aloe vera gel or a fragrance-free calming cream to reset.
Final Thoughts
Building a skincare routine doesn’t have to feel like climbing a mountain. You don’t need 20 products or some viral TikTok haul to feel good in your skin.
What you do need is:
- Consistency
- Gentle ingredients
- And a little bit of patience**
Your skin might take a few weeks to adjust, and that’s okay.
Give it time.
Take photos every week.
Track your wins — even the small ones, like less oiliness or smoother cheeks.
And most importantly: don’t compare your journey to someone else’s.
Your skin is yours, and it’s beautiful already. The routine is just a way of showing it love — not fixing something that’s broken.
